Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.